Thoughts on corset construction

I have been thinking for a while about the many pittfalls of corset construction. I learned the gentle art of corseting from this web site http://web.archive.org/web/20030605225317/http://waisted.com/ . The owner of the site gives a thorough introduction to creating custom fit corsets, but what isn't covered is how extremely important it is to have some basic knowledge of how the different styles of corsets are cut and constructed. If you do not know what kind of silhouette and era you're after, you're likely to end up with a corset that either doesn't fit properly, or emphesizes the very things you wanted hidden, or moulded into a different shape. The first thing anyone wanting to create their own corset should do is get hold of a book about the subject, such as Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh. Just to get an idea of the different styles and take a note of how the pattern is cut. Especially if you're thinking of making one of the really complicated ones, such as the edwardian. After that you're ready to fetch the duct tape and an old t-shirt to create the mould, so to speak.

Another thing which isn't discussed much in this site is how *^^&*$%£ annoying and hard work fitting a corset can be. First of all, you'd think after having done the whole ducttape thing that you have the perfect shape which can be easily turned into the corset of your dreams. Allow me to rectify that misapprehension right now. First of all, the waist of the duct tape mould is never tiny enough, the lower abdomen always needs to be taken in, and quite often you'll find that it is too tight over the bum. So this is something you need to keep in mind while cutting the pattern. When you've successfully put the whole thing together and you think you're happy with the look and shape of the corset, you need to sit down on a chair in front of a mirror and make sure you like the way it looks from the front as well as the side. When looking at the side view what you want is the busk to curve slightly inwards at the waist, and cup the tummy. If the busk pokes outwards, you need to alter it. A good trick is always make the corset a little longer than you intend it to be, because it tends to end up shorter in the front due to the fitting.

Last but not least, if you have spent 100€ + on a fabulous fabric, make sure you make a mock up of the corset first. It saves both time, stress and precious fabric.